October Jewel of the Month
Victorian Archaeological Revival Necklace
October Jewel of the Month boasts the continuous uniform fringe decorated with beads, wirework and florets.
The style of necklace is typical for the work of Eugène Fontenay. Eugène Fontenay was one of the foremost goldsmiths in France during the second half of the nineteenth century and was a great admirer of the ancient goldwork techniques of granulation and filigree... and became best known for his outstanding work in the 'archaeological' style.
Fontenay was inspired by the Campana collection of ancient jewelry, acquired by Napoleon III in 1860, and his firm produced much work in the antique style based on Greek, Roman and Etruscan examples. He became best known for his outstanding work in the 'archaeological' style.
Fontenay was inspired by the Campana collection of ancient jewelry, acquired by Napoleon III in 1860, and his firm produced much work in the antique style based on Greek, Roman and Etruscan examples. This jewel is comprised of 18K and features a filigree decoration, which is thin golden wire twisted into refined motifs, in this case, elegant little balls. You can also notice the use of granulation on this piece.
Granulation is a goldwork technique the goldsmith uses, to form very small balls (granules) of metal, which are not soldered to the piece, but welded. Both techniques demand very high skills and precision from the maker.
Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head (that was in use in France from about 1838) and remains of other marks
Condition: very good condition (more info on our condition scale) Dimensions: length necklace 36.50 cm (14.37 inch) Weight: 84.50 gram (54.33 dwt).
According to Elkan at Adin, a demi-parure of a very similar design is illustrated in French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, p. 643. and a similar necklace plus matching earrings were sold at Sotheby's for $ 52,000 (Important Jewels auction, New York, February 2008 sale N08410, lot 110).
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